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Arctic Char big enough to spool your memory bank for eternity.
FLYING AND FLY FISHING CANADA'S NORTHERN UNGAVA WILDERNESS WONDERLAND...GIVING NEW MEANING TO ADVENTURE TRAVEL
The East Ungava Bay Peninsula in Northern Quebec, Canada is truly a land of breathtaking fjords, crashing arctic seas, multi colored tundra, icebergs, polar bear, roaming caribou,
and Arctic Char big enough to spool your memory bank for eternity. It was for this very reason that I left the comforts of mid summer Maine and headed north. Way North. After a drive of some 6 hours from coastal Maine we arrived in delightful downtown Montreal to catch a flight the following day of 1000 miles due North to the Innuit village of Kuujjuaq. Here we transfered to a small twin Otter plane flown by Innuit Air for a further journey into the recesses of the Canadian northland and the even smaller outpost of Kangiqsualujuaq. And then a third flight that same day with outfitter Alain Legace to his Barnoin River camps in his Cessna 182 float plane 25 miles inland from Ungava Bay.
It is hard to imagine stepping off the plane's pontoons into a more magical outpost and how remote and detached from the day to day world one is and the inner peace one feels as a blazing purple and orange glow lights up our arrival and first night in this surprsingly well equipped outpost.
After a well appreciated treat of smoked Ungava Char and all the trimmings of a well presented dinner, it was a fairly early turn-in to our very cozy and comfortable log cabin with warm bunks, corner heater, well screened windows, and views of the northern vistas.
The camp is located on the east side of Canada's remote Ungava Bay where most of the Char rivers are located. This is from the 59th parallel to the Land's End at the 60th parallel on the tip of Quebec & Labrador. Barnoin Camp offers cabins with 2, 3, and 4 beds and has hot and cold running water 24 hours a day for the two shower rooms, well stocked kitchen, and sparkling clean and cozy dining room. And in addition to the float plane used for 1 or 2 angling guests, a Twin Jet Bell Long Ranger Helicopter is used to hold up to 5 guests at a time.
The next few days took us to amazing holding pools, cascading waterfalls, and river runs and rips that are less than 30 minutes of flying time from camp. One may wish they were a little further away than this as the scenery is unending and truly out of this world spectacular from the air. Some of these wilderness rivers have never seen a fly and Rapid Lake / Barnoin River Outfitter's have exclusive access to the entire East Ungava Peninsula.
Day one: We dropped into a tundra bound mountain top lake and hiked into an indelible river with fast runs, steep drops and holding pools brimming with big Char ranging up to 15 pounds. My fishing friend and I are both fly fishing enthisiasts and we found that sink tips with brightly colored single hook streamer flys and a very short leader seemed to be the ticket for catching these beautiful fresh run Char.
My best for the day was a rapidly turning red, brightly colored brute of 13 pounds... followed quickly by a bruiser of 15 pounds doing his best to find the quickest route back through the rapids to Ungava Bay. Fortunately I was able to turn the tide on this huge beauty and will hold that big fish in very high esteem for a long, long time. Huge fish like these were exactly why I had come to these waters and I surely was not in the slightest bit disappointed.
Day two: We flew about 30 minutes again but in a different direction over phenomenally beautiful terrain to another river system that tumbles and blasts through steep canyon walls to sprawling holding water below.
This area is still influenced by huge Ungava Bay tides which average 52 ft and what one minute looks like likely holding water can, within minutes, totally change its nature. We settled for several smaller char on this outing and chose to sit back, relax and take in the surroundings.
Day three: Our good luck with excellent flying weather fortunately held for the third straight day and we did an absolutely incredulous flight exploring the steep walled Torngat Mountains separating the watersheds of northern Quebec and Labrador. I have had my share of float plane adventures over the years and must say that camp owner Alain Legace is as experienced and competent a pilot as one will ever find in the bush. He was truly incredible and allowed us to sit back with full confidence as we toured this wonder world from on high.
After an unbelievably exciting and breathtaking Torngat tour, we eventually landed in a small mountain lake and hiked over the tundra for a mile or so into the most beautiful fishing water I have ever seen in my life.
Water the color of liquid Turquoise rushed and tumbled through canyon after canyon into holding pools so clear you could not only see bottom but also row after row after row of huge Char awaiting their chance for a run at the big falls which would get them one step close to their spawning destination.
We picnicked beside one such cascade and watched dozens upon dozens of charging Char take a running leap up the face of the falls. After lunch, I wandered upstream for a bit and found a perfect pool with big rips top and bottom and was able to coax yet another very big Char to my fly.
It turned out to be a brightly colored male of some 13-15 pounds which I released after a quick photo as it lay in the shallow waters of a back eddy pool.
Day four: Once again the weather held and we were treated to yet another flight of scenic splendor through mountain ranges and steep canyons and eventually somewhere over the Labrador Sea. The fjords off the open ocean would drop several hundreds of feet to sea level below and the twisting spiraling flight down through the canyon walls was exhilarating to say the least. Polar Bear and Icebergs also graced our itinerary. It was the first time I had witnessed a Polar Bear in the wild and even from a distance below our low flying float plane, they are of such massive size as to make one shake his head at the wonder of it all.
The icebergs were free floating and the color of a cool tropical drink I have had somewhere in my travels but never so memorable as one of these roaming wild and free. The rest of our last day on the river was to offer many big Char both in the river and headwater lake on which we landed the float plane. We landed a few, lost a few, and shared our wonderful last day with many Black Bear that were also trying their hand at Char fishing and sharing the resource. It was a wilderness experience for sure and as memorable a day on the water as I hope to ever remember.
Back at camp for the last night, my good friend and fishing buddy, Ed, reflected on what an absolutely incredible spot this northland really is. It is, on one hand, close enough to get to in a long day of interesting flying ........
yet so far removed from civilization that is almost like being on another planet altogether. The 2006 season is now fully booked but 2007 is open for reservations. With 10-15 pound Arctic char bright enough to light a fire in your memory forever lurking everywhere, it is a fishing opportunity not to be missed. And while the fishing is unlimited, space is very limited.
Please contact me to find out more about this very unique part of the Lax-a world.
Great nature !!!
Gin clear rivers full of monster Arctic Char.
Our friends watching us fishing.
